Perched at the southernmost tip of the Delmarva Peninsula, the Eastern Shore of Virginia National Wildlife Refuge offers unique blend of natural beauty and military heritage. From sweeping views of the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel, to hiking trails and wandering around a historic WWII bunker, there is something for everyone.
The Delmarva Peninsula, a combination of Delaware, Maryland, and Virginia, sits along the Mid-Atlantic coast. Nearly all of Delaware occupies the northern portion, while the eastern shores of Maryland and Virginia claim the central and southern sections. Bound by the Chesapeake Bay to the west and the Delaware Bay and Atlantic Ocean to the east, the area is filled with salt marshes, coastal barrier islands, national wildlife refuges, and waterfront towns. I took the 17.6-mile Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel (CBBT) from Virginia.
Scenic Overlook
Located on the west side of the roadway, this overlook sits on the opposite shoreline from the wildlife refuge. Wide views of CBBT can be seen across the bay.
Butterfly and Wildlife Trails
The Butterfly and Wildlife Trails offer access to the Winslow Battery, a historic cemetery, and the Marsh Overlook. I started on the Butterfly Trail from the Eastern Shore of Virginia Welcome Center, but it can also be picked up at the refuge visitor center.
As part of the Atlantic Flyway, I found multiple birds on my hike even in the heat of summer including American goldfinches, blue grosbeaks, indigo buntings, red-eyed and white-eyed vireos, red-winged blackbirds, and yellow-breasted chats.
The trail ends at the Marsh Overlook where dozens of fiddler crabs scurried in the mud.
Also from the overlook, I saw the Cape Charles Lighthouse, the taller in Virginia. Originally built in 1827 as a 55-foot brick structure which proved ineffective. A new taller station was completed in 1864 and in 1895 the 191-foot skeletal tower was built.
Three towers stand next to the lighthouse – World War II soldiers stationed there would radio range and direction information to coastal defense sites so they could precisely target and fire on vessels. The Smith Island “fire control towers” are some of the last of their kind.
Battery Winslow and Historic Cemetery
Fort John Curtis was defended by several batteries with artillery, including Battery Winslow with two 16-inch Mark II-M1 (Navy) guns. The current 50-caliber gun in the bunker, originally from the USS Missouri, moved to the refuge in 2013 to represent the original gun mounted there. Its 66.6-foot-long barrel is painted gray for the Navy and green for the Army. It could fire a 2,100-pound projectile over 25 miles.
The bunker has a 67-step staircase to an overlook at the top. From there, I had views of the surrounding marshes, barrier islands, bays, inlets, and the Atlantic Ocean.
After the bunker, the next historic site is the Hallett-Fitchett Cemetery, a private burial ground for the two local families.
Bull’s Drive Trail
Connected to the Magothy Bay State Natural Area Preserve hiking trail, this 1.25-mile trail is on the north side of the refuge. It wanders through a coastal pine forest and out onto a dike overlooking the salt marsh along Magothy Bay.
The initial section of the trail, shared with the preserve, is restored songbird scrublands. There were lovely purple vetch blooms and red-orange trumpet vine flowers. Blue grosbeaks, Carolina wrens, northern cardinals, prairie warblers, and tufted titmice sang from the branches.
In the pine forest, I shared the trail with an eastern box turtle.
Along the salt marsh, black skimmers, herring gulls, laughing gulls, and white ibises dotted the landscape.
The Eastern Shore of Virginia National Wildlife Refuge offers visitors the chance to enjoy quiet coastline ecosystems, the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel architecture, and military history. It is a perfect introduction to a Delmarva Peninsula road trip.