Our first stop on our 2023 Outer Banks trip was Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge. It is on the Albemarle Peninsula between mainland North Carolina and the Outer Banks. U.S. Route 64 is the main highway across the peninsula, and two entrances to the refuge are off this road (Buffalo City Road and Milltail Road). The other entrance/exit is off U.S Route 264.

Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge protects forests, bogs, marshes, blackwater swamps, and rare Pocosin wetlands. There are a couple of hiking trails and paddle trails for visitors as well as a wildlife drive.

We started by entering the refuge on Buffalo City Road. Be prepared that the roads are unpaved and a little rough, as are most wildlife refuge roads. We took Buffalo City Road until it ended at the Milltail Creek Paddle Trails and Sandy Ridge Wildlife Trail.

Sandy Ridge Wildlife Trail

Sandy Ridge Wildlife Trail is an easy 0.5-mile trail. It alternates between dirt paths and wooden boardwalks. Strollers and wheelchairs can use the trail, but it does not meet Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) requirements.

Sandy Ridge Wildlife Trail
Steph at Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge

Sandy Ridge follows the bank of Milltail Creek. The beginning of the trail gives a beautiful overlook of the water.

Milltail Creek

We saw and heard brown-headed nuthatches, Carolina chickadees, Carolina wrens, great crested flycatchers (below), prothonotary warblers, and red-bellied woodpeckers.

Great crested flycatcher on boardwalk

In the water, lily pads, water lilies, and cattails grew along the path. Turtles enjoyed the sun but quickly dropped into the water when we stopped to watch them. Dozens of dragonflies and butterflies hummed by.

Water lily along Sandy Ridge Wildlife Trail

On the boardwalk, squirrels bounded ahead, and a five-lined skink popped its head from under the railing.

Squirrel on Sandy Ridge Wildlife Trail boardwalk

There is a mobile audio tour for the trail. Call or scan the QR code to learn about the refuge.

Murphy Peterson Wildlife Drive

After Sandy Ridge, we drove back to turn on Sawyer Lake Road which is the start of the wildlife drive in this area of the refuge.

On our backtrack up Buffalo City Road, we spotted an alligator in the marsh or creek along the road. We were able to snap a few photos of this beautiful reptile, who did not seem to care about us at all. So many turtles also occupied this wetland area along the drive.

American alligator in Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge

Other than the alligator, my other favorite encounter was a barred owl sitting in a tree next to the road. It’s rare for me to see one so close to eye level – amazing!

Barred owl along Murphy Peterson Wildlife Drive

We also saw indigo buntings and red-headed woodpeckers. A small group of deer was visible for a minute before they were hidden by cattails.

White-tailed deer along Murphy Peterson Wildlife Drive

Sawyer Lake Road dead ends into Milltail Road. Turning left brought us along farmland, past the operations center, and back to U.S. 64. Right before the highway is a parking lot to your left and the Creef Cut trailhead to your right.

Creef Cut Wildlife Trail

Creef Cut Wildlife Trail is a 0.6-mile universally accessible paved path. At the end there is a connecting spur path on a 200-foot wooden boardwalk into the freshwater marsh.

Creef Cut Wildlife Trail
View from Creef Cut Wildlife Trail boardwalk bridge

From the boardwalk, we heard a clapper rail and blue jays. More dragonflies and turtles completed the marsh picture.

Boardwalk spur trail off Creef Cut Wildlife Trail

Across from the boardwalk trail, there is a pond. Here we spotted a great blue heron taking flight and a small alligator.

Great blue heron in Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge
Small alligator in Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge

This area is managed by the refuge to grow wetland plants. The refuge floods the area in the fall so ducks can feed on insects and plants.

If you notice military jets overhead, Navy and Air Force jets practice maneuvers here.

After finishing the Creef Cut Wildlife Trail, we drove back down Milltail Road to finish the wildlife drive – down Long Curve Road, turning on Borrow Pit Road, and ending at U.S. 264.

Outer Banks

Finally, we made our way to the Outer Banks.

We stayed at Surf Side Hotel in Nags Head. I picked this area because Nags Head was the mid-point for all the activities we wanted to do while in the Outer Banks.

Dinner was at The Kill Devil Grill in Kill Devil Hills. It was very popular and there was a long wait, but it was worth it. We both had the grilled shrimp and angel hair – incredibly delicious!

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