Our last full day in Pilanesberg was one of the best! We explored the Alkaline Ring Complex and saw elephants, rhinos, zebras, and giraffes – including babies.
Morning Game Drive
Alkaline Ring Complex
Pilanesberg sits in the center of an ancient alkaline volcanic crater. It is one of only three craters like this in the world. The “Alkaline Ring Complex” was formed 1.2 billion years ago when the volcano erupted, leaving concentric rings of hills and valleys making a near perfect circle. Mankwe Dam is located just east of the ring’s center.
Antelope
Our first encounter was a herd of impala. Impala are so abundant in the park that you start to think “it’s only impala” when you find them rather than one of the so-called Big 5.
Next to the herd, we found another antelope – a lone steenbok. It was my first time ever seeing one and I was lucky enough to be the person to spot it!
Steenbok means “stone antelope” in Afrikaans. Due to their size, they almost look like antelope babies, rather than grown adults. Steenbok are known for their large ears in proportion to the rest of their head.
Lions
Over the radio came the news that lions were spotted near the dam. Our guide, Werner, started up the truck and we hustled to the shore where we spotted the lionesses the night before. Success – 2 male lions were near the bank. One was lying by the water while the other was walking away in the grasses.
The lion slowly got up and made its way along the water’s edge. He seemed wounded, and Werner said they may have been fighting. According to Werner, there are around 65 lions in the park.
A black-backed jackal was quick to abandon the grasses and follow after the lion.
Khoikhoi folklore has many stories about jackals, often pairing them with lions who they frequently use their intelligence to outsmart or betray.
Elephant
There is a male elephant that we often saw in the area around Mankwe Dam. He has one broken tusk on his right side. He is not shy and often walked by and between our game vehicles.
Rhinos
Near the elephant, there were 3 white rhinos.
White rhinos are not, in fact, a different color than black rhinos. They are now regularly called by their descriptive title of square-lipped rhinoceros. Their wide mouths are used for grazing on grass.
Black rhinos are called hook-lipped rhinoceros. As browsers, their “hooked” lips help with grabbing leaves from trees. Black rhinos are also smaller than white rhinos.
Giraffes
After the rhinos, we started back for the lodge. There was a small group of giraffes wandering through the trees along the road.
Tsessebe
Right before we hit the park gate, we found 3 tsessebe! With the grasses so high, it was difficult to get a clear glimpse of them but it looked like a small bachelor herd.
Tsessebe are larger antelopes with deep brown coats and black faces. They are the fastest antelopes in Africa, running up to 80 kilometers per hour.
Afternoon Game Drive
Rhinos
The afternoon game drive started with two more white rhinos.
Cape glossy starlings are the shiny blue birds that can often be seen with rhinos. They follow rhinos hoping that insects will pop up as the giants move through the grass.
Our game truck was one of three at the lodge with 4×4 capabilities. Therefore, we could go up the steep, rocky, and rough road on the hill near Nkakane. We saw a small tree that had been stripped of its bark by an elephant.
Elephants
There was evidence that the elephants had recently been there so we thought we had just missed them. Then we turned the corner and there was an entire herd (close to 20 elephants)! We slowly drove up and then turned off the truck to sit and quietly watch them.
Werner explained that elephants monitor movement in the ground and use it to communicate; so, having several rumbling vehicles nearby distresses them. Best to turn off your car to not disrupt them.
The elephants were calm for several minutes and we were fortunate to view a handful of calves. Something must have moved or made a noise in the distance because suddenly the elephants were spooked and surrounded us at attention. They stood in a circle facing out with the young on the inside.
Werner softly told us to keep calm, stay still, and be quiet. I sat perfectly still for a couple of minutes as they stood right next to my face and then slowly strolled beyond the truck. We could feel the movement of the air from their ears flapping. I was in the back seat closest to the herd, so every elephant had to walk by me. There was even one elephant that started to back up after they had passed me.
These magnificent creatures continued down the road behind us for a while before stopping, seemingly undisturbed once again. It was a couple of tense minutes but a truly incredible experience! Definitely something I’ll remember for the rest of my life!
Rhinos
After the elephants, we moved down the hill. A little movement in the grass caught our eye and we spotted a white rhino mother with her calf. The baby was interested in us, but mom nudged it to move along.
White rhinos have one calf at a time. The calf stays with its mother for 2 to 3 years. White rhinos are very protective of their young and babies will run in front of their mothers when threatened.
Zebras
Down the road was a group of zebras, sometimes called a dazzle or a zeal. There was one foal with them. Those stripes always draw my eye – so beautiful! The foal below looks likes a twin of the adult.
Giraffes
It was a day of babies because after the zebras was a small tower of giraffes. There was one pale giraffe calf chewing on leaves along the road.
As it was growing dark, we drove back to the lodge for dinner. After dinner, there was another late-night shower. Since we were leaving the next morning, and I wanted to make sure we were able to go on the dawn game drive, we packed our bags before retiring.
Ivory Tree Game Lodge Standard Room
2020 Price: R16,793 (approx. $1,166) for 3 nights
South Africa is incredible!!! We had the pleasure of going last year and I’m dying to go back. There is something just so awe-inspiring about seeing these animals in their natural environment.
I totally agree Sarah! This was my second trip to SA and I would gladly go back again!