As part of the Delmarva Peninsula, Assateague Island spans 37 miles across two states – Maryland to the north and Virginia to the south. Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge covers acres of beach, marsh, and maritime forest on Virginia’s Eastern Shore. It is a haven for migratory birds, wild ponies, and travelers looking to explore.
Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge
2026 Price: Free due to my Annual Pass (Fee would have been $10 for a day pass)
The trail system is an interconnected 15-mile network with little elevation gain. Below is what it is like to hike Chincoteague’s signature trails in June.
Lighthouse Trail
I started my refuge visit at the Assateague Lighthouse and was the only one there at that time of day. The 0.25-mile trail is a shaded, unpaved path through the trees. There are some tree roots and a climb up a sandy hill; however, there is a small parking area near the lighthouse for those who need accessibility accommodations.
Built in 1867, Assateague Lighthouse stands 142 feet tall with a red and white candy-stripe pattern.
From the trail I listened to brown-headed nuthatches, Carolina chickadees, Carolina wrens, and eastern wood-pewees.
Beach Road
Next, I drove down Beach Road to check what wildlife was active that morning. There are areas to pull over and park near Black Duck Pool and the Black Duck Marsh. In the water along the road there were dozens of great egrets, snowy egrets, laughing gulls, Forster’s terns, and white ibises. These white feathered beauties put on a show preening and catching their breakfast.
Wildlife Loop
Then I moved to the Wildlife Loop. This 3.2-mile paved road is open to foot traffic and bicycles. After 3:00 p.m. the loop is open to vehicle traffic for those looking for an easy, accessible way to enjoy the refuge.
Many of the hiking trails branch off from this loop. A couple of cute critters were Delmarva fox squirrels and cottontail rabbits. Delmarva fox squirrels are a subspecies of tree squirrels native to the Delmarva Peninsula. This species was listed as endangered in 1967 due to habitat loss. Due to conservation efforts, the population rebounded and was officially removed from the federal endangered species list in 2015.
Other sightings included Canada geese, eastern kingbirds, indigo buntings, little blue herons, red-winged blackbirds, and yellow-throated warblers.
Black Duck Trail
Black Duck Trail is a 1-mile paved connector trail that cuts between Black Duck Pool and Swan Cove Pool. Many people use this route to connect to the Woodland Trail. It is nice for birdwatching. Carolina wrens, hooded warblers, and northern cardinals called out to me from the trees.
Swan Cove Trail
Connecting the Wildlife Loop to the beach, the 0.5-mile Swan Cove Trail takes you through shrub, barrier beach, and dune habitats. It acts as a perfect spot for a quick break by the Atlantic shore.
On the beach laughing gulls wandered through the waves while brown pelicans soared above.
An Atlantic ghost crab scurried in the sand, its pale body helping it blend into its coastal environment.
Boardwalk Trail
This short low boardwalk crosses above a marsh wetland without disturbing the fragile ground below. It ends at a wooden observation platform overlooking Snow Goose Pool. From here, I saw the top of Assateague Lighthouse in the distance.
The trail was incredibly quiet and peaceful during my visit. I found colorful common yellowthroats and indigo buntings. A single cottontail rabbit bounded away at my approach.
Marsh Trail
Marsh Trail is a 0.5-mile scenic detour from the Wildlife Loop with an elevated observation platform overlooking Snow Goose Pool. This platform is directly across the pool from the Boardwalk Trail platform.
The unpaved gravel trail wanders through marsh grasses where a group of cattle egrets were almost hidden from sight.
Woodland Trail
For my final hike, I drove to the parking area for the Woodland Trail. It is a 1.6-mile paved loop through a pine forest. I found blue jays, Carolina chickadees, dark-eyed juncos, indigo buntings, northern cardinals, and pine warblers.
The major attraction for this area is an overlook where you can sometimes see the wild Chincoteague ponies grazing in the marsh. While technically feral (descended from domesticated horses that adapted to living in the wild), they have evolved into a hardy breed. Their small stature is an adaptation to their diet and the harsh island environment.
Virginia’s herd is owned and managed by the Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Company, who receives an annual grazing permit for approximately 150 adult ponies. The annual “Pony Swim / Penning” was founded in 1925 to help raise funds after a series of fires in downtown Chincoteague. In late July, saltwater cowboys round up the herd and drive them across the narrow channel to Chincoteague Island at low tide. The next day, young foals are auctioned off to the public to control the herd size and raise funds for the fire department.
While I wasn’t fortunate enough to see the ponies on my trip, I did see great egrets and white ibises from the overlook.
Know Before You Go
- Consider the season: I recommend avoiding the refuge in the height of summer. It was very hot and many of the pools had low water levels. Early spring and late fall have comfortable weather with peak bird migrations.
- Use strong insect repellent: The biting flies and mosquitos are relentless in June, July, and August. Even with bug spray from head to toe, sometimes they would follow me for an entire trail attacking my face and hands.
- Sun protection: I recommend bringing a hat, sunscreen, and plenty of water as some of the trails, including the Wildlife Loop, are fully exposed.
Whether you come for the sweeping salt marsh vistas, the quiet pine forest, or a chance encounter with the island’s famous wild ponies, Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge’s diverse trail network shares the best of Virginia’s coastal wilderness.