Francis Beidler is an 18,000-acre bird and wildlife sanctuary with the world’s largest virgin cypress-tupelo swamp forest. A universally accessible 1.75-mile boardwalk allows visitors to venture into the swamp. Visitors can also hike the nearby Grassland-Woodland Trail. There is a $10 per person admission fee for the boardwalk; however, the grassland trail is free. Pets and bikes are not allowed on either trail.
According to their website, Francis Beidler Forest is one of two forests in South Carolina that has never been logged. Visitors wander by 1,000-year-old trees and native wildlife in a sanctuary that has been untouched for a millennium.
Roads throughout Harleyville, SC leading to the center have signs for the forest. The gravel road for the boardwalk trail has a blue sign with “Audubon Center at Beidler Forest” on it. Drive slowly as the road is narrow and wildlife could cross at any time. Parking at the Audubon center is in gravel spaces between trees.
Four Holes Swamp
Francis Beidler is part of the Four Holes Swamp, a blackwater tributary of the Edisto River. A swamp is a flooded forest. While swamps are flooded by nearby rivers and streams, there can be dry areas during the year.
Boardwalk Trail
The wooden elevated boardwalk is a loop trail through the bottomland hardwood forest and swamp. There are two rain shelters and several covered benches. Each covered bench has a different theme and wooden carvings, like the below Snake and Lizard Rest Shelter.
The boardwalk also offers several informational signs describing the surrounding landscape.
Bald cypress and tupelo gum trees are the most common trees in the forest. Cypress trees are straight and thick with wide, fluted bases. Tupelos are shorter, crooked, skinny trees with bell-shaped bases. Another differentiator is that bald cypress trees have knees.
Knees are bulges sticking out of the ground. Researchers still don’t know their exact purpose but there are some ideas – they help anchor roots in wet soil, they store energy produced by the tree, or they act as a conduit between the air and underwater roots.
Many of the bald cypress trees here are over 1,000 years old. There is one immediately next to the boardwalk, pictured below, with a sign explaining the history.
At the back corner of the boardwalk, you’ll find Goodson Lake. While it looks more like a bend in a river, the lake is called a lake because it holds water even during a drought. There is a deck and upper observation deck to view the area and practice forest bathing.
Birding Along the Boardwalk
140 bird species have been documented here. Many popular bird species, such as the prothonotary warbler, start arriving in April.
Birds I saw on my visits include barred owls, blue-gray gnatcatchers, Carolina wrens, downy woodpeckers, eastern phoebes, great egrets, great crested flycatchers, hermit thrushes, Mississippi kites, prothonotary warblers, red-bellied woodpeckers, tufted titmice, yellow-crowned night-herons, and yellow-rumped warblers.
My two favorite experiences were a barred owl and yellow-crowned night-heron. During my first visit, I was slowly making my way along the boardwalk when I caught sight of a barred owl just before I passed it. It was sitting on a tree right at eye level. After a few quiet moments, it swooped down to catch some prey in the water before flying off.
On my second visit, everyone else was focused on the prothonotary warblers, so I wandered farther down the loop. Knowing I had seen a yellow-crowned night-heron close to the boardwalk on my first trip, I was on the lookout again. Then I spotted one in the distance and settled in to see if it would come closer. After twenty minutes, still with no other visitors close by, the night-heron had come within a couple feet of the boardwalk. I watched it calmly catch a crayfish/crawfish right in front of me (in sunlight!). These moments make me feel really connected to nature.
Wildlife Along the Boardwalk
In addition to birds, there are multiple mammals, reptiles, and amphibians along the boardwalk as well. I have seen an alligator, broad-headed skinks, brown watersnakes, five-lined skinks, mud turtles, and yellow-bellied sliders.
Eastern gray squirrels bound from knee to knee and along fallen logs.
Grassland-Woodland Trail
Parking for the grassland trail is available in the gravel lot immediately next to the forest entry road. The trail is open to the public from sunrise to sunset every day. It is a relatively easy trail but there are roots, dips, and muddy areas along the route.
There are two paths here – the 0.8-mile Short Loop through the grasslands and the 1.25-mile Long Loop which starts through the woodland before meeting the Short Loop. The Short Loop has blue blazes, and the Long Loop has yellow blazes.
On the Long Loop, there are two small bridges to help visitors cross small streams. After the second bridge (starting from the woodland side) are two wooden benches to rest upon.
I noticed some anole lizards on the forest floor and grasshoppers and butterflies in the grassland, including an eastern tailed-blue butterfly.
Birding Along the Grassland Trail
Because the grassland and woodland habitats differ from the swamp, you will find species you might not see on the boardwalk. Painted and Indigo buntings are common springtime finds along the grassland trail.
I spotted cardinals, chipping sparrows, crows, downy woodpeckers, and pine warblers.
As someone who has visited multiple times, I would recommend Francis Beidler Forest for anyone who enjoys birding. The boardwalk is my favorite trail in the forest.
Loving your post. Just noticed you were near our hood this week.
Always enjoy your subjects Steph. I live North with trees that are just beginning to bud. Reading about the Beidler forest and seeing the foliage made me yearn to drive South and do it now. Thank you for the photos and advice. Always well done.