Spring visitors on gravel roads and boardwalks in Pocosin Lakes National Wildlife Refuge enjoy the return of songbirds and the lush backdrop of North Carolina peatlands. I split my mid-April trip across two days, allowing me to explore both the Scuppernong River Interpretive Boardwalk and the rugged Pungo Unit auto tour.

Pocosins are a rare wetland ecosystem found primarily along the Atlantic coastal plain, with the highest concentration in North Carolina. Defined by their acidic, nutrient-poor peat, pocosins form when layers of organic matter accumulate over thousands of years. When kept intact, these wetlands serve as natural carbon sinks that safely lock away vast amounts of carbon.

Scuppernong River Interpretive Boardwalk

This boardwalk is the perfect place to start, winding through bald cypress and water tupelo in the refuge’s swamp forest and river habitats. It is an easy walk; however, the boardwalk is slanted in places so watch your step.

Scuppernong River Boardwalk
Scuppernong River Boardwalk through the trees
Scuppernong River from the boardwalk

The boardwalk is perfect for observing the slow-moving dark waters of the Scuppernong River, where I saw spotted turtles and yellow-bellied sliders basking on fallen logs.

Spotted turtle in Pocosin Lakes Wildlife Refuge
Yellow-bellied sliders in Pocosin Lakes Wildlife Refuge

I caught the distinct songs of blue-gray gnatcatchers, Carolina wrens, and northern cardinals, and swamp sparrows. Nearby, the calls of common grackles, laughing gulls, and red-bellied woodpeckers rounded out the soundtrack.

Pungo Unit Drive

While Pocosin Lakes lacks a formal wildlife drive, its network of refuge roads is open to visitors, including about 15 miles within the Pungo Unit. These unpaved roads traverse through managed wetlands and large agricultural fields. Unlike more polished wildlife drives, these roads are frequently rutted and feature very little signage for street names or points of interest.

Pungo Unit wildlife drive

Note: Some roads are closed from November through February to limit disruption to tundra swans, Canada geese, snow geese, and ducks who winter here.

Channels and fields hug the roads for most of the drive, offering plenty of opportunities for wildlife viewing.

Channel from Pungo Unit drive

A quiet, cloudy day did not slow down the local wildlife. My drive yielded American goldfinches, blue jays, brown-headed cowbirds, common yellowthroats, eastern bluebirds, and eastern kingbirds. I also encountered eastern towhees, great crested flycatchers, killdeer, laughing gulls, red-winged blackbirds, and turkey vultures, proving that an overcast day can still be rewarding.

Red-winged blackbird in Pocosin Lakes Wildlife Refuge
Turkey vulture in Pocosin Lakes Wildlife Refuge

Visitors have also observed larger mammals such as black bears and white-tailed deer.

Partway through the drive, a side road branches off toward an observation platform overlooking Pungo Lake. Farther down the main route, I saw a solitary trumpeter swan relaxing in a shallow section of the lake.

Pungo Lake from viewing platform
Trumpeter swan in Pocosin Lakes Wildlife Refuge

A visit to Pocosin Lakes National Wildlife Refuge reveals the untamed beauty of North Carolina’s coastal plain. It demands a bit of patience, but for those willing to look and listen closely, the spring reawakening is worth the journey.

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